A unprecedented alliance of European textile and clothing federations has issued an urgent call for regulatory intervention against ultra fast fashion at the Première Vision trade fair in Villepinte. The coalition warns that this business model, dominated by major non-European e-commerce platforms, poses an existential threat to the continent's textile manufacturing ecosystem.

Alarming market impact

The federations report that ultra fast fashion already accounted for 4.5 billion imported parcels in the European Union during 2024, representing 5% of total clothing sales and 20% of online purchases. This explosive growth continues at an unprecedented pace, creating severe market distortions that undermine decades of European textile industry development.

Critical industry challenges

The signatories identify four primary concerns threatening European textile competitiveness. Textile waste is exploding due to overproduction of extremely short-lifespan items, creating environmental pressures that contradict EU sustainability goals. European SMEs face unbearable competitive pressure while maintaining strict social and environmental standards that their ultra fast fashion competitors ignore. Local retailers experience accelerated decline, contributing to city centre deterioration across Europe. Most critically, these platforms operate through practices that breach European regulations, including VAT fraud, counterfeiting, and unfair competition.

Strategic regulatory demands

The coalition demands immediate implementation of the European Customs Code reform adopted on June 27, 2025. They call for strengthened controls through the Digital Services Act and Digital Markets Act, requiring e-commerce platforms to appoint legally authorised representatives for accountability. Additional measures include taxation on small parcels, abolishing customs duty exemptions below €150, ensuring VAT collection on massive import flows, and engaging Chinese authorities to regulate platform practices.

Industry-wide mobilisation

The joint declaration represents unprecedented European unity, co-signed by Euratex, national federations from France, Italy, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Greece, Lithuania, Netherlands, Portugal, and Serbia. This coalition represents the entire European textile value chain, from fibre production to finished garments, demonstrating the industry's commitment to sustainable, quality-focused manufacturing against unsustainable competition.